Making the Letterbox

Good friends of ours wanted a new letterbox - nothing fancy - just a functioning letter box.
They even provided a fully detailed engineer's drawing.
(which I have misplaced, but will post here when found)

Here we go.

Made from recycled timbers sourced from far and wide.
The ship-lap boards are western red cedar from my brother in law's renovation and the remaining parts are alpine ash from a reclaimed bed-head.

Hinged forward using brass hinges.  The salty air at the address necessitated some corrosion protection.

The sides of the letterbox hang down below the base so that rain does not cause rotting problems to the floor of the letterbox.

The roof overhangs the body on all sides to provide a constant self draining design that doesn't impact the sides.
And here is the finished article all mounted on its post.

The choice of finish for a salty environment is tough gloss acrylic paint - inside and out.
The existing number and newspaper holder were retained.  And they are sheltered from the elements.
Happy shavings to all.

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The ukulele is progressing, but has gone on the back burner while this commission is completed.

Preparing Stock 

For this hall table I will use some very old Australian Rosewood.
It was felled over twenty years ago and has sat around all that time waiting to be turned into something beautiful.
Hope I do it justice.

 

The exterior of the rosewood has deteriorated but the timber underneath is quite lovely.

The bandsaw makes short work of ripping down to size.
Here I am cutting the legs.

Note the push stick on the right for assisting with the feeding when using the fence on the bandsaw.
Saves losing fingers if things slip up.

Here is the slab that will become the top of the table.

Already some interesting grain is evident and this will need to be watched to prevent tearout when working with tools.

There is a natural edge to this slab which I will preserve as the leading edge of the table top.
It is weather beaten and grungy, so it will need refining when the time comes.

In its present shape this slab is too long and will be trimmed to size, being careful to remove as much cracking and checking (see far end)   as possible.

Next step will be to mill the legs.  These will be square in section at first but will be tapered later.

The four legs are all 45mm square to begin with.

First step will be to cut these to length.

Before tapering, the mortices that will house the rails will be cut.  It is much easier to do this with square stock than with tapered stock.

Also, the rails need to be housed in mortices that are square to the rail ends.

The grain in the legs is not straight, and has a distinct sloping attitude to it.  I will use this to advantage when it comes time to taper the legs.  The tapers will follow the grain.

Next step is to cut out the front and back rails as well as the side rails.

These will be the same width and thickness.

Here I have cut more rails than I need.

there is some checking towards the ends of the individual timbers and the grain varies with the timbers used.

There is also some significant sapwood that shows some signs of  insect larval damage.

I want to use the sapwood in the design if possible, but will carefully remove any damaged sections first.

The rails need truing and the bandsaw marks need removing from the edges and faces.
Here I am using a Stanley Number 31 transitional plane as my jointer.

The edges are checked for square against a strong light.  As you can see, this edge still needs work.

The Legs

Once the legs have had their mortices cut - I use a router for this - then the legs can be tapered.
A rough taper is cut on two faces of each leg on the bandsaw.

The legs are then smoothed using the Stanley jointer once more.

Once smooth, the edges need to be dressed to prevent splintering and the base of each leg chamfered.

This chamfer stops the bottom of the leg splintering, and also creates a shadow line under the foot - adding a little elegance.

In the next part, I will dress the table top and gather all of the parts before final assembly.

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A woodworking guild is a organization or a club of craftspersons inside the woodworking market. Woodworking guilds are individuals who have higher woodworking expertise. In case you require data about woodworking guilds within your city you are able to usually use the aid of Net.

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Cabinet makers Association: Cabinet shop owners, had been the ones who formed this association. There major aim was to discuss any difficulties that could be faced by cabinet shop owners. Also they got a likelihood to meet other managers and owners of rival small cabinet shops.

Central Florida Woodworkers Guild: This association was formed to assist cultivate appreciation and awareness of woodworking crafts. Also it encourages higher standards of design and workmanship of woodworking crafts. It is possible to ask for the aid of their wood workers for counseling.

Colorado Woodworkers Guild: This association can be a group of skilled and amateur woodworkers who share their experience for the advantage on the society. Their aim is also to promote and advance excellence in woodworking.

Columbus Woodworkers Guild: Every single month this affiliation conducts a common meeting. The association tends to make certain that the meeting is full of helpful details, also is enjoyable and educational to all members.

Conejo Valley Woodworkers Association: This association is in Ventura County, which is in the state of California. Their primary purpose is to instruct, market and share their woodworking understanding with other folks.

Fine Woodworkers of Austin: This non profit club is located within the Texas location, it provides data and education to those that are interested in finding out or refining there woodworking expertise.

Greenville Wood workers Guild: This association strives hard to elevate the public's information in the art of woodworking. By means of collective effort it generates numerous Charitable causes.

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OK - last post for 2013.
Our children are spread over the width and breadth of this wonderful country, and unlike last Xmouse we are not all able to be together for the celebrations of love and family.
Red dots indicate where our kids are situated:

Soo, this year we are on the road.
A trip to Brisbane to be with our daughter will also include a detour to visit my brother, and time spent with my sister on the outskirts of the city.

For overseas folks - you non-Oz residents - here is a size comparison to show distances compared to the USA and Europe:

The trip to Brisbane is like driving from Eugene Oregon to Oakland California in distance.........

..

..............or from Paris to Nice, or Istanbul to Kosovska Mitrovica, Kosovo ..............

Family time - nothing better.

A few images from the trip:

Brisbane by day..............

....... and by night

............ and from my brother's verandah ................ not in Brisbane  - can you tell .......  :)

...... and so to New Year's Resolutions ..........
................... to finish the ukulele ...hahaha.
 That will re-commence with the first post of the New Year.
Happy 2014 everyone .......... may the fresh year bring you peace, and as much joy as you can handle.

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Crikey - what a busy year.
So much so that I have not posted here for some months.

The latest construction effort came about because of necessity - repairs to an existing deck turned into a full blown deck re-building project.

I will comment on the stages when I find time, but for the moment, here are some progress pictures that will show its development.

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The Hall Table is finished and gone to a good home.
Soooo - back to the Uke.

The body of the ukulele is complete as far as the sides go, but it needs a neck block.

I have made the neck block from Australian Cedar for its lightness, strength and tonal qualities.

The neck block is over large - as this end of the uke is a weak point on a cutaway design.
The neck block is glued in place.

I have been refining the body and getting things ready for the application of the linings.  These hold the top and bottom in place when they are glued to the body sides.
I made the linings on the tablesaw from a piece of paulonia.

The kerfed timber was then cut into strips on the bandsaw.

The full story of making the linings can be found here:
http://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com.au/2012/06/building-ukulele-part-1-timber.html
I had made enough when I constructed my first ukulele, to have sufficient for a few more ukes.
The linings are held in place by clamps and pegs until the glue is dry.

 

This is done one side at a time, to allow the mould to support the body, and for it to project enough to apply the clamps.

Once  the top is done, the mould is flipped over and the process repeated for the bottom.

Inevitably there is excess glue that needs cleaning up, as well as any bumps from the linings that project above the edges.
This is easily attended to with a small block plane.
Enough for today.
Next time I'll look at the front and the back.
Happy shavings to all.

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